Introduction
Most people know about the different fragrance families. The system used to differentiate between the different scents based on the dominant characteristics of the fragrance. People also know that most fragrances have top, middle and base notes. However, many people stumble over the differences between the various fragrance types. If this is you and you’re not sure about the difference between EDP, EDT, EDC, and EF, then don’t despair; we have all the answers on the different types of fragrance here in one place.
We are looking at personal fragrance here, the perfume you buy at the counter. Perfumes and the variants we buy are extracts of the manufactured fragrance. Any fragrance might be made using natural plant oils and extracts, animal products, and synthetic chemical mixes. Many perfumers love to work with ingredients from nature. However, the alchemy happens in the laboratory, and synthetic ingredients are exciting to develop and work with. They are created from ingredients that started in nature, after all. Synthetics are popular for the consistency they add and frequently, a synthetic ingredient will add to the longevity of a fragrance. One of the most well known synthetic fragrances is citronellol. Once made when it is left alone, it has a rose-like aroma. Citronellol is a derivative of citronella, which naturally has a citrus scent. Perfumers can also manipulate synthetic versions of citronellol to mimic lily of the valley, narcissus, hyacinth, and sweet pea.
What’s in a Name Perfume V’s Fragrance
What we all tend to call perfume is not strictly perfume. Fragrances, to give the collective variants their correct name, vary tremendously from different fragrance houses, different brands, and as we will see here, different variants. A version of a fragrance in the concentration of an eau de toilette frequently smells different from the same fragrance when it’s in the format of the eau de perfume or another format. This may be a natural occurrence due to the changes in how we perceive the fragrance as the alcohol content has increased or decreased, or in some cases, the fragrance houses tweak the varients a little with the aim of retaining the recognizable scent but to enhance it in different concentration variations. For example, a little more vanilla might be added to the eau de perfume blend to make a new to market eau de perfume smell more like the already familiar eau de toilette version.
Whilst most of us call all the varients of fragrance “perfume” and there is nothing wrong with that. For the sake of clarity, we refer to “fragrance” or “fragrances” and “scent” throughout this article. The different types are only referred to in the context of their variant. You will also see listed below the names with alternative names; again, for the purpose of clarity, we have utilized the first name for each type in the list throughout the article.
Fragrance Variants
Making fragrance is an art form. Creating and developing fragrances and ensuring that the favored fragrance can be reproduced consistently for the marketplace is no mean feat. The amount of fragrance oil to alcohol ratio of fragrance oil to alcohol and water ratio can change the fragrance significantly in some cases. Sometimes an oil is used to dilute the fragrance, and this is something that makes the fragrance last longer on the skin but, again might alter the olfactory experience as the ingredients and notes are shaped slightly differently. That is why it is not unusual to love a fragrance in one format and find you are not so keen when it is in a different variant.
What are Perfume Types
The different perfume types often lead to confusion and frustration. You know which fragrance family or families you prefer but are stumped about which type is best for your needs. Here is a more extensive list of the different types to get you started:
- Parfum
- Eau de Perfume, Eau de Parfum, EDP
- Eau de Toilette, Faire sa Toilette, EDT
- Eau de Cologne, Cologne, EDC
- Eau Fraiche, EF
It’s not unusual for someone to love a scent in one of these types and not exactly be enamored when they try the same fragrance in a different type. Furthermore, fragrance based add ons of body lotions, powders, and deodorants can be surprisingly different from the familiar fragrance you think you know so well. The experience can be different when buying those products. Don’t worry, it is quite normal to love a fragrance when it is in a body lotion and when you treat yourself to the eau de perfume, you find you don’t like it after all. If that has happened to you, you won’t be the first or last person to experience that type of scenario. The more intense fragrance of the eau de perfume can bring out different fragrance notes more prominately than in the diluted lotion. Conversely, sometimes the lotions and products have a good strength and offer a scent that is true to the original.
As a basic answer to the question, what are the differences: Parfum is the strongest, then eau de perfume, eau de toilette, eau de cologne and finally eau fraiche. To add to the confusion different perfume houses seem to categorize fragrances differently. Something that is strong as an eau de toilette from one house could be similar in strength and depth of fragrance to an eau de perfume from another house. In the world of fragrance, there are no set in stone rules. The industry thrives on an ethos of discovery, and rules are there to be broken.
One thing you can be certain of is that parfum is the highest concentration of fragrance and the intensity and longevity goes down from there.
Parfum
Parfum is also sometimes called Extrait de Parfum or Pure Parfum. Parfum has the highest concentration of any perfume concentrate. This is a highly concentrated fragrance that often contains 30% parfum concentration. Certainly, you’d expect Parfum to be a minimum of 20% concentration, and some are as much as 40% concentration.
Parfum is an oily fragrance treat that is sometimes supplied as a solid that you extact with a rub of your finger before applying to your pulse points. Liquid parfum comes with a stopper, and you apply the parfum by dabbing it onto pulse points. Whether a liquid or solid, only a small amount is required to enjoy the fragrance all day.
When you consider the work that goes into making fragrances, it is hardly surprising that the most concentrated form available parfum commands a high price.
Contrary to popular belief, those with sensitive skin can frequently wear the highly concentrated perfume when they encounter problems like rashes, when they use other types of fragrance. In a lot of instances it is the drying effect of the alcohol in the fragrance that causes the reaction.
Furthermore, because fewer applications are required, parfum is a good choice when you want to wear fragrance but suffer from a skin condition. This is because fewer applications means less times for the possible irritants to affect your skin, meaning that you are less likely to suffer a reaction.
Eau de Perfume
Eau de perfume always contains at least 15% of fragrance concentrate. In some fragrances, eau de perfume is as much as 25% concentration. Realistically, the average is around 20%.
There is a wide variation of how much parfum concentrate, alcohol, and other stabilizers, creators use in eau de perfume. As well as the complexities of the different fragrance blends the variations of the blends alter the fragrance between parfum concentration percentages. The molecular structure of the fragrance oils becomes altered by the varying percentages of alcohol, water, and additional carrier oil. This means that parfum, eau de perfume, eau de toilette, eau de cologne, and eau fraiche are all likely to have their own individual characteristics within the same range.
Eau de perfume may be supplied with or without an atomizer. Generally, the heavier eau de perfumes should be gently dabbed onto the pulse points in the same way as parfum. The longevity, intensity, and sillage may be less than when you use parfum in the same way.
When you have been using eau de toilette and buy eau de perfume with an atomizer, take care to use it sparingly. Generally, eau de perfume is much more intense than eau de toilette. Eau de perfume is stronger and heavier than eau de toilette, eau de cologne, and eau fraiche versions of fragrance. You will frequently notice that it has an oily texture.
Eau de perfume lasts longer than eau de toilette but does not usually last as long as parfum. The heavier, oilier, and more highly concentrated eau de perfume usually has a stronger scent, greater sillage, and is longer lasting than eau de toilette.
However, although eau de perfume is usually around 15% fragrance oil concentration from most fragrance houses, the intensity and longevity of the fragrance also depends on the fragrance ingredients used and the individual wearer.
In most cases, the cost of eau de perfume falls midway between the highly concentrated parfum and the lesser concentration of Eau de Toilette. However, the price is highly dependent on the expense of the ingredients used. Making fragrance is a labor-intensive, expensive business. But oh so worth it!
Although we expect the fragrance intensity in an eau de perfume to be stronger and longer lasting than all except parfum, that is certainly not always the case. The intensity of fragrance varies from fragrance to fragrance and between fragrance houses. Examples to consider are things like Clean eau de perfume from Clean, which is a light, short-lived fragrance with citrus and wild berries top notes, mid notes of lavender, lily, violet, passionflower, jasmine and damask rose ending in the base notes of geranium, white musk and heliotrope. Or consider Viktor & Rolf Flower Bomb eau de perfume which as you would expect, is a fragrance reminiscent of walking into a massive, well-stocked flower shop. The top notes of Flower Bomb are green tea, bergamot, and osmanthus. The middle notes of rose and freesia soon come through, followed by hints of jasmine, orchid, and orange flower. This is an interesting and complex fragrance, and the mid notes et al last well when this fragrance is worn. The base notes when they come through are a delicious blend of patchouli, musk, and hints of vanilla.
Compare these to something like Versace Crystal Noir eau de toilette, which is strong and long-lasting despite the lower perfume oil percentage. Versace’s fragrances include lighter fragrances too. This one, though, begins with intense blackcurrant, black fig, and violet top notes that you notice are soon accompanied by the mid note of frangipani that is then joined by the other mid notes of tuberose and jasmine. The base notes are a seductive mix of sandalwood, cashmeran, vanilla pod, and heliotropine.
The Miss Dior fragrances from Dior are another case in point. Miss Dior eau de toilette is actually a slightly different fragrance to the eau de perfume. So, although the fragrances are similar, they are deliberately different. Miss Dior eau de toilette has top notes of blood orange and mandarin. Mid notes are a pleasing strong kick of rose and lily of the valley. The base notes end with intense patchouli. Alternatively, Miss Dior eau de perfume offers an intense fragrance that opens with lily of the valley, peony, and iris. Before introducing the mid notes of rose with hints of vanilla. The base notes end the experience with a mix of musks, vanilla, tonka bean, benzoin, and sandalwood, with the sandalwood lingering way into the dry down.
Eau de Toilette
As you expect, eau de toilette comes from the French, and toilette means preparing yourself for the day. A more literal meaning is water of the toilette. It’s a phrase that comes from the practice of scenting the body and the hair as part of morning grooming routines. It’s obvious when you know that eau de toilette embraces the morning ritual of getting washed, dressed, adding make-up and a spray of fragrance.
Most Eau de toilette will have a fragrance concentration of between 4% and 8%, and some may have up to 10% of the fragrance oil concentration. Typically the average is somewhere around 7%.
The differing variances and concentrations used by the various perfume houses is also a reason why similar scents from different perfume houses may seem heavier and have a stronger fragrance than others. The amount of concentration impacts the intensity of the fragrance and impact on the molecular structure of the fragrance, and how the notes come through. The notes can alter noticeably with higher concentrations of alcohol and stabilizers.
Because eau de toilette is perceived as a lighter fragrance than eau de perfume, it is frequently considered as a daywear fragrance and eau de perfume as a nighttime fragrance for going out. However, as you have read in the eau de perfume section above, that is not always the case. Some fragrances that are only sold as eau de toilette would be too intense and overpowering for many people to wear as an eau de perfume or parfum.
Due to having a lower concentration of the fragrance oils, eau de toilette is usually offered at a lower price than eau de perfume, or, alternatively, are sold in larger bottles for around the same price.
Eau de Cologne
Eau de cologne has a lower amount of fragrance oils than eau de toilette and a considerably lower concentratation than parfum or eau de parfume. Typically, eau de cologne has between 2 and 4%. The lower fragrance content means that there is a higher quantity of alcohol. Subsequently, the price of eau de cologne tends to be cheaper than eau de toilette, or you get a larger vessel for your bucks.
When fragrance is developed as eau de cologne, it tends to be aimed at the lighter fragrance spectrum. Meaning that not only is the fragrance less dense because it contains less fragrance oil and is less likely to have additional carrier oils, it is also created as a lighter fragrance in the first place.
Remember I said in the fragrance world, rules are to be broken, and this should be the case with regard to eau de cologne. To generalize, most eau de colognes on the market are aimed at the male market, and most eau de perfumes and eau de toilettes are aimed at the female part of society. However, this is not a hard and fast rule.
The famous London perfumer Jo Malone offers a range of colognes that are suited to both male and female wearers. They are not distinguished as fragrances for either male or female or any other gender for that matter.
Examples of Jo Malone cologne include Pomegranate Noir with its top notes of pomegranate and juicy red fruits, mid notes of a floral blend to give the character of Casablanca lily, and base notes of smokey wood from guaiacwood. Or Sea Daffodil Cologne is a light and refreshing fragrance inspired by the white sea daffodils and salt blown sands of Italy. Sea Daffodil ends with sensual vanilla, but before that the opening notes are vibrant yellow mandarine, followed by mid notes of Madagascar natural vanilla and planifolia fruit extract to represent the sea daffodil.
That said, eau de cologne is well established as aimed at the male fragrance market, and it does work well as an option for aftershave when a light fragrance is desired.
Eau Fraiche
Eau fraiche is most similar to eau de cologne as a lower concentration of perfume concentrate. Eau fraiche is a fresh variant of fragrance that contains only approximately 1-3% of fragrance concentrate. Frequently the additional ingredients are made up of alcohol, water, and a stabilizer. As well as the alcohol diluting and altering the fragrance as it does in other fragrances, water is an important active ingredient. You may not think so, but water adds to the fragrance’s sillage as it ignites the scent. However, that said, eau fraiche is the most subtle fragrance variant. In fact, eau fraiche has a lower alcohol content than cologne, and alcohol usually shares the main ingredient honors with water.
On most people, eau fraiche lasts for around two hours. This is because of the low oil content. Both alcohol and water evaporate quickly.
Eau fraiche’s lower parfum percentage and lower price should not be confused with lower quality. These are high-quality fragrances that perfume houses have invested time and money into developing.
People love eau fraiche for its fresh, uplifting properties. It’s a perfect choice for freshening up, actually, the literal translation of the French eau fraiche to English is water fresh, or fresh water. The style of eau fraiche is light and fresh. Because it is short-lived and diluted, the eau fraiche notes are concentrated on the top notes, the fresh, bright notes you notice when you first spray a scent. The eau fraiche fragrance will damp down a little, and you may notice subtle changes, but this low parfum concentration version of fragrance usually remains with the top note fresh scent until it fades. There are likely to be accompanying notes, especially when stronger ingredients are utilized. But you won’t experience the long middle and base notes that you do with other fragrances of a higher oil percentage. Even with the classic trio of different notes from eau fraiche, the effect is lighter. The base notes come through sooner and don’t linger as they would with a highly oil concentrated fragrance option.
Eau fraiche is perfect for when you want a light, fresh fragrance in the summer. Eau fraiche is a fragrance option for both men and women. Eau fraiche works for men who don’t like the fullness of aftershaves, who want to wear a fragrance but just prefer a lighter fragrance. In some cases, men who have a reaction to the higher alcohol content of aftershave or eau de cologne will discover they can comfortably use the watery mix of an eau fraiche.
Eau fraiche is supplied in spray bottles and is a great option for when going swimming, to the beach, or for sporting activities when you want a light fragrance that you can reapply when you feel the need. Still, don’t be misled, eau fraiche still has the formality of a ‘perfume’. It may be lighter and shorter-lived and the price lower, but eau fraiche still packs the punch of a ‘proper’ fragrance.
The term eau fraiche originally referred to a Dior (then Christian Dior) fragrance brought out during the mid 20th century. Their eau de cologne, called Eau Fraiche, was described as starting with a sparkling, sharp, gleaming citrus accord that was heavy with lemon. The citrus was quickly accompanied by a haze of herbs and a perfume dry down.
To add to people’s confusion about what is what, in the world of fragrance, there are eau fraiche fragrances out there that are referred to as eau de toilette. Such as Versace Man Eau Fraiche, which lists alcohol as the main ingredient and water as the second ingredient with no percentages given. It may be an eau de toilette but with the freshness of an eau fraiche, or it may have the lower parfum oil percentage that we expect from an eau fraiche.
Versace describe Man Eau Fraiche a fresh fragrance with white lemon and star fruit with rosewood top notes, being met by cedar leaves, tarragon, and clary sage with end notes of sycamore wood, musk, and amber.
The modern offering from Dior, Addict Eau Fraiche, is also sold as an eau de toilette. They say the main ingredient is water, however, when a full ingredients list is viewed, alcohol is again the main ingredient, followed by water. Dior gives the opening notes as sparkling citrus notes of sweet and sour grapefruit and Calabrian bergamot. Together, as long as the bergamot is not allowed to dominate, they will give a citrus fragrance with a strong floral undercurrent. Mid notes bring subtle freesia and lily of the valley before the end woody notes and white musks.
Dior also still sell a fragrance that is simply called Eau Fraiche that they describe as a fresh chypre with invigorating citrus notes, they say it is ‘like a breath of fresh air.’ (Dior, accessed April 2022).
Another eau fraiche offering for women called Eau Fraiche but described as an eau de toilette is from Elizabeth Arden. The Elizabeth Arden eau fraiche is a definite green fresh, and citrusy fragrance. The top notes of mint and lemon give way to mid notes of geranium, iris, narcissus and jasmine before ending with spicy base notes, including patchouli and cedarwood.
Elizabeth Arden’s eau fraiche offerings also include Green Tea, described as sparkling, uplifting, revitalizing, and energizing. The top notes are citrus from bergamot, lemon and orange zest with rhubarb and caraway, that are enhanced by mid notes of green tea, peppermint, sweet jasmine, carnation, fennel, and celery spice before the end notes of amber, oakmoss, and musk.
At the time of writing, another fragrance house that has a fragrance called Eau Fraiche is Yves Saint Laurent. This is another fragrance for men. The top notes are lemon, ginger, and pepper. Middle notes of geranium, mint, lavender, and juniper berries with base notes of cedar and olibanum.
What all the above eau fraiche fragrance variants have in common is their freshness, with many being referred to as ‘sparkling’, and they all have a strong citrus presence.
Concentration of Fragrance Oils
The concentrations can vary from fragrance to fragrance, but here is an average guide. In general, the higher the percentage, the higher the price – but be aware that different concentrations (Perfume, or Eau de Toilette, etc.) may also have different notes in them, and not simply be weaker or stronger. So when you like a fragrance, we suggest you explore its different versions.
- Parfum 20-40%
- Eau de perfume 15-25%
- Eau de toilette 4-8%
- Eau de cologne 2-4%
- Eau fraiche 1-3%
How Long Do the Different Fragrance Types Last
You can reasonably expect the fragrances that contain the highest fragrance oil content to last the longest. This is because oil holds the fragrance on the skin longer than either alcohol or water or a combination of both alcohol and water. However, there are other influences on the longevity of a fragrance. The main influences are:
- The strength of the fragrance
- The strength of the individual fragrances within the fragrance
- The molecular type of products used to create the fragrance
- Your skin type
As we’ve discussed above, parfum has the highest concentration of fragrance oils, followed by eau de perfume, eau de toilette, eau de cologne, and finally eau fraiche. It is a reasonable expectation to anticipate the greatest longevity from the highest fragrance oil concentration. When all things are equal, that is certainly the case.
However, when stronger, tougher fragrance oils are used within a fragrance, they last longer than something that is naturally weaker. That is one of the reasons that perfume developers like to use synthetic ingredients because they are often longer-lasting.
Another aspect is that the products used to create the fragrance have an impact on how long the fragrance will last as well as the strength of the fragrance. This is because a naturally oily or heavier, more complex ingredient will last longer than, for example a citrus-based fragrance oil that is lighter from the start. Some ingredients have a heavier molecular structure than others. The overall molecular structure of the fragrance created has an impact on how long the scent will last.
Fragrance ingredients with complex molecules such as musks, oud, woods, amber, and natural vanilla, and many synthetics last longer than lighter small molecule ingredients such as citrus and many of the floral ingredients.
Fragrance clings to the outer layers of your skin. Fragrances last longer on those who have naturally oily skin or more porous skin. The more natural oils you have in your skin to retain the fragrance oils, the longer fragrances will last for you. People with dryer skin can help the fragrance to last longer by first applying unscented lotion, cream or body butter to prime the skin before adding the fragrance.
On average parfum will last between eight and twelve hours, depending on its molecular structure and your skin. In some cases, the base notes linger for twenty-four hours or more. Most applications of parfum will comfortably see you through the working day or evening out. Eau de perfume lasts for around six to eight hours. Eau de toilette generally lasts for between four and seven hours. You can expect eau de cologne to last between two and four hours, while eau fraiche is noticeable for one to two hours and so requires regular topping up.
Molecular Structure
The science bit:
It is the molecular structure of the ingredients that go into the make up of the fragrance that have the biggest influence on the longevity of the fragrance on the skin and the apparent strength of the fragrance. That is why some eau de toilettes have a stronger fragrance than some eau de perfumes and why some fragrances last longer than others.
You may have already realized, too, that the molecular structure of the various ingredients play a big part in determining when you notice the different notes of a fragrance. As the smaller molecules disperse, the fragrances of the larger ones become more noticeable.
Take Away Make Informed Choices
When you go shopping for fragrance, remember that one type of fragrance is not necessarily better than another. Choose scents that you like that make you feel good, that you connect to. Select your chosen type by the fragrance – how it smells on your skin and not because someone tells you that eau de perfume is better. Of course, sometimes it is better, sometimes though an eau fraiche is perfect for your requirements and your skin. Or maybe you will select something in between in the fragrance oil percentage categories.
When selecting a fragrance for yourself apply the tester to your skin, don’t rub the area and go away from the counter and get on with your day. Revisit the fragrance during the next few hours to see how it wears on your individual skin.
Frequently choosing an eau de toilette is the perfect choice for you. When you choose a fragrance to wear, the category type is irrelevant, it’s how it smells on you and how it makes you feel that is the most important thing. Equally, you might decide that the different complexities of the eau de perfume suit you better.
Depending on the type of fragrances you favor, an eau de perfume might be lighter than an eau de toilette. How long a fragrance lasts on your skin is influenced by your skin type and the molecular structure of the fragrance you choose.
You now know that the quality of a fragrance is not determined by the fragrance oil concentration it contains, and neither is the strength of fragrance always determined by the concentration of fragrance oil. Rather, both are determined by the molecular structure of the ingredients and the mix of individual ingredients that make up the fragrance.
We wear fragrance because it makes us feel good. Sometimes we choose a fragrance for a specific purpose. Fragrances smell different on different people. Choose your fragrance for no other reason than because it smells good on you.
Resources used:
https://www.dior.com/en_gb/products/beauty-Y0996154-miss-dior-eau-de-toilette
https://www.jomalone.co.uk/product/25946/9900/colognes/pomegranate-noir-cologne?size=100ml
https://www.jomalone.co.uk/product/25946/100502/colognes/sea-daffodil-cologne?size=100ml
Citations:
Dior, Eau Fraiche, dior.com/en_gb/products/search?query=eau%20fraiche, accessed April 2022.
